ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1970 Mustang => Topic started by: RHarden on October 11, 2014, 12:43:15 AM
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I'm working on restoring my 1970 Mustang Mach 1 and I have about had it with the repo weather strips that fit the roof rails. They fit fine at the cars front door jamb and along the roof edge, but the other end around the flip out window doesn't fit very well. The end of the molding that attaches to the rear door jamb isn't correct compared to an OEM molding. It leaves a large opening at the door/rear quarter area. It isn't wide enough to overlap the interior fiber glass rear seat panel at the top, that runs parallel with the flip out window. There is a gap between the rubber molding and the panel, no matter how it's installed. I wish is had my old originals back and I would install those. At least they fit. I have tried several brands, but they all seem the same. I was told Daniel Carpenter makes all the roof rail moldings available. True or not, that's what several suppliers said. Does anyone know of any other sources for these molding? Hopefully they fit better than these.
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Can't help you with a repro source, but if you buy NOS, avoid the paper wrapped ones.
They're always kinked up from folding.
Get the NOS ones that are boxed and chances for survival are much better.
You can also see what sort of shape they're in simply by opening the lid so to speak.
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I wish I could find a set of NOS rubber weather strips, or even a good set of used OEM, but so far, I haven't found anything. If anyone has these, please get back to me. I should have kept my originals, but I never thought the repos were that far off. I'm limited on garage space too, so I tend to get rid of things I feel are trash. Lesson one, save everything until the job is done. Thanks 71scjracer.
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I have read your post and others concerning the after market 69-70 door weather strips. Generally most people are not happy with the fit. I have not replaced the door weather stripping on my car mostly because of the remarks I have heard. I posted some questions, on this site, when I replaced the door glass vertical weather strips and it seems that the OE door rubber wasn't that great to start with. As to another supplier; I have heard Steele Products mentioned a few times. I have noticed an extra screw located, on mine, in that area causing you the most trouble. Some pictures of the OE weather strip at the Left quarter window. http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=7354.msg41930#msg41930 Brian
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Hi Brian. Is you roof rail stripping OEM? It doesn't look like my brother's 70 Shelby does. It fits differently around the door jamb end and window. I don't have pictures of his car and I should take some to send them. Part of my problem is the rubber location in respect to the chrome "C" molding. In order to make the rubber fit up against the "C" molding, like my original rubber did, causes the rubber to be too far away from the interior fiber glass back seat panel. If I locate the rubber inward, where it will fit up to the fiber glass panel, then I get a good size gap between the "C" molding and the rubber. I see the gap in the pictures you sent. It's like the rubber weather strip is too narrow at this point. My "C" chrome molding is in the proper place and it looks to be the same dimensions as my old OEM molding. I don't know. Maybe I'm being too picky. I'll guess I should get everything to fit the best I can and then get out the caulking gun. I have talked to three restoration shops and they said they have had issues every time they have installed these. I was told Daniel Carpenter makes these for everyone. The rubber is of good quality, it's just the fit.
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Hi Brian. Is you roof rail stripping OEM? It doesn't look like my brother's 70 Shelby does. It fits differently around the door jamb end and window. I don't have pictures of his car and I should take some to send them. Part of my problem is the rubber location in respect to the chrome "C" molding. In order to make the rubber fit up against the "C" molding, like my original rubber did, causes the rubber to be too far away from the interior fiber glass back seat panel. If I locate the rubber inward, where it will fit up to the fiber glass panel, then I get a good size gap between the "C" molding and the rubber. I see the gap in the pictures you sent. It's like the rubber weather strip is too narrow at this point. My "C" chrome molding is in the proper place and it looks to be the same dimensions as my old OEM molding. I don't know. Maybe I'm being too picky. I'll guess I should get everything to fit the best I can and then get out the caulking gun. I have talked to three restoration shops and they said they have had issues every time they have installed these. I was told Daniel Carpenter makes these for everyone. The rubber is of good quality, it's just the fit.
I struggled with these weatherstrips too when I restored my '69. I didn't have any original rubber left to go by, so I had to finally just do the best I could. I feel for you guys, especially for the car in the picture. Since it's a brighter exterior color, any kind of gap is going to stand out like a sore thumb. My '69 is Black jade (very dark green), so I at least had some leeway there. I fought the weatherstrip position for days, and you're right--you get one area sort of close, and it throws everything else off. Very, very frustrating.
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Just talking about my car. The quarter window ' C ' chrome needs to move toward the glass at least 1/4". The other side, see picture, ' C ' chrome is in about the right place at the front and to far to the outside going back. So the location of that piece of chrome trim seems to be the place to be doing the adjustments. Yes my rubber is OE C9ZB 65519A DX FoMoCo. Brian
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Just talking about my car. The quarter window ' C ' chrome needs to move toward the glass at least 1/4". The other side, see picture, ' C ' chrome is in about the right place at the front and to far to the outside going back. So the location of that piece of chrome trim seems to be the place to be doing the adjustments. Yes my rubber is OE C9ZB 65519A DX FoMoCo. Brian
Hi Brian. My chrome moldings need to be moved in too, but they are up against the holes where the fastening tabs are. I would have to file the holes out so the "C" moldings can be moved closer, which is not a big deal, since my car is not together yet. I just want it to look good and be close to being correct. Thanks. Rich
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Virginia classic mustang advertizes a nice fitting 69-70 roof rail weatherstripping, has anyone tried them, are they made by dan carpenter .
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VCM is where I purchased my last set of roof rail rubbers and they are made by DC. They are made of quality material, they just don't fit as well as they should. All my fit issues are around the side, flip out window area. The part of this weather strip that fits under the side glass, should be wider. I can't get it to fit tight against the lower, inner edge of the chrome "C" molding and overlap the top of the interior rear seat panel, like the original factory piece did. It should be wider in this area. It also isn't like the original piece at the rear door jamb. You would have to have an old original weather strip in order to compare the two and see what I'm referring to. I can't open the flip out window and close it without the glass catching the edge of the rubber and pushing it inward. I have talked to many Mustang restoration shops across the US and they have all told me the same thing, they don't like the fit of the repo weather stripping. One shop said the 69-70 roof rail weather stripping is one of the biggest headaches when it comes to doing a restoration. I don't think Ford did a very good job with the design and fit of the roof rail weather strip to begin with, but I think the originals were a better fit. I would have thought DC would have designed these to fit better than they do. They advertise these being made from "original Ford tooling" but I don't see how? I have been told that DC weather strips are the best that are on the market and they manufacture most of what you can buy.
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If any one has a good used set of weatherstripping, this company will go out of its way to reproduce an exact replica for you and then produce more for other customers. I've been to their shop, and they do this sort of thing for all sorts of vehicles that one would think is not collectable as well as those that do.
Restoration Specialties & Supply Co.
814-467-9842
PO Box 328, Windber, PA 15963
http://www.restorationspecialties.com/ (http://www.restorationspecialties.com/)
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I talked to Daniel carpenter years ago about his poor fitting 69 roofrail weatherstripping & he admitted they were bad & one of the first parts he made when he got started but he has made good parts from examples I sent him over the years & he has much better equipment & tooling now & good quality control. Daniel is a great guy & cares about getting parts made right but he has to have a good partin great condition as an example to make it right. Brian in your pic of your red car the quarter window pivet chrome shaft has a small square rubber boot that fits on top of the side panel square cutout (look at pic of blue car in this post) just p ointing this out as I see this onmany cars either from being taken apart & not reinstalled correctly or from someone cleaning car & pushing down on the boot & easily knocked out of place & some may have left factory that way if worker got in a hurry & didn't line up boot in slot opening when rear panel installed.
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OK I think I get it. The pivot's square boot sandwich's the fiberglass quarter panel ? So somewhere below the fiberglass square cut-out should be a rubber boot ? The next time that Q-panel is off I will be checking it out. Brian
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OK I think I get it. The pivot's square boot sandwich's the fiberglass quarter panel ? So somewhere below the fiberglass square cut-out should be a rubber boot ? The next time that Q-panel is off I will be checking it out. Brian
Brian, it looks like that boot is there in your picture, it's just tucked under the fiberglass panel. Pretty sure I see it lurking there. :D
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Yes it is most likely there. Thank you specialed for the heads up. Brian
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I see the boot too. It should be easy to get back in place just by removing a few screws.
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I talked to Daniel carpenter years ago about his poor fitting 69 roofrail weatherstripping & he admitted they were bad & one of the first parts he made when he got started but he has made good parts from examples I sent him over the years & he has much better equipment & tooling now & good quality control. Daniel is a great guy & cares about getting parts made right but he has to have a good partin great condition as an example to make it right. Brian in your pic of your red car the quarter window pivet chrome shaft has a small square rubber boot that fits on top of the side panel square cutout (look at pic of blue car in this post) just p ointing this out as I see this onmany cars either from being taken apart & not reinstalled correctly or from someone cleaning car & pushing down on the boot & easily knocked out of place & some may have left factory that way if worker got in a hurry & didn't line up boot in slot opening when rear panel installed.
I don't mean to bad mouth Daniel Carpenter and his parts. It's just that a part that can only cost around $100.00, like the roof rail weather stripping, can make a classic Mustang restoration a headache. These aren't the only issues I have run into and I'm sure many of these were not made by DC. I have talked to Chevy guys restoring Chevy's and they don't seem to have many issues with repop parts. Maybe they aren't as fussy as Ford guys, but I'm sure most of them are. I'm sure it's not easy reproducing parts and having them "fit" well. I just wish they would "fit" better. I would even pay more for a part that was next to, or better than NOS.
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there is another repo out there that fits better I think midland or ? brian you pull the boot up in placewith small needlenose pliers without taking panels off.
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Yes, thanks for the tip. Not going to fool around to much more with this until the panels are off. These panels are even more fragile/thinner than the ones on my 65. Brian