ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1964 1/2 - 1965 => Topic started by: drummingrocks on November 13, 2014, 10:41:37 AM
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Does anyone have a source for a correct rivet for the weatherstrip that rivets to the top of a '65-66 vent window frame? The rivet that comes with the repros is just a standard rivet, whereas the original rivet had a larger head and fit the frame much better.
Here's the piece I'm referring to: https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/seal_vent_window_to_door_post-103803-0.html
Also, does a '67-68 use a similar setup? I purchased new window runs for my '67 coupe, and it appears that they too are meant to rivet to the top of the window frame.
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I'm not aware of anyone making an exact rivet. The originals look like they were chrome finish too.
67-8 uses a screw instead of a rivet, the top seal is made into the vertical run.
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Charles, my main gripe with the last set of rivets I used was that they were more of a button head/standard rivet, whereas the original rivet had a flat head that perfectly filled the hole in the vent window frame.
Good to know that a '67 uses a screw instead of a rivet--that will save some headache! Thanks!
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This photo doesn't really show the heads of the rivets, but I wonder if the rivets in this Scott Drake kit are more correct?
Here's the link: http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-vent-window-rivet-tool-kit-1965-1966/p/HW1456/ (http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-vent-window-rivet-tool-kit-1965-1966/p/HW1456/)
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Probably about the best you will find. Only other option is having them custom made at Hanson Rivet, believe it's a 500 minimum.
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Probably about the best you will find. Only other option is having them custom made at Hanson Rivet, believe it's a 500 minimum.
Charles, is that tool/punch that's included in the kit the same thing I would need to install the glovebox door emblem we talked about in the other thread?
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Hard to tell from the pic, it might flatten the rivet instead of spreading it.
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My measurements for 64963-S as shown on Illustrated Section 230 page 5, 0.144D,0.250L,0.312D HD,0.035T HD,0.101ID 0.137L RECESS
From Granger, some options, see link for prices:
Steel, zinc plated, 1/4 L, pk 100
http://www.grainger.com/product/Semi-Tubular-Rivet-1HBP8?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1HBP7_AS01?$smthumb$
Aluminum, 1/4 L, pk 100
http://www.grainger.com/product/Semi-Tubular-Rivet-1HCL7?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1HBP7_AS01?$smthumb$
Stainless, 5/16 L, pk 50
http://www.grainger.com/product/Semi-Tubular-Rivet-1HEE3?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1HBP7_AS01?$smthumb$
Steel, zinc plated, 5/16 L, pk 100
http://www.grainger.com/product/Semi-Tubular-Rivet-1HBP9?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1HBP7_AS01?$smthumb$
I used the rivets in the kit but I needed to fabricate a die to stake and flare the bottom with my rivet tool.
Jim
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My measurements for 64963-S as shown on Illustrated Section 230 page 5, 0.144D,0.250L,0.312D HD,0.035T HD,0.101ID 0.137L RECESS
From Granger, some options, see link for prices:
Steel, zinc plated, 1/4 L, pk 100
http://www.grainger.com/product/Semi-Tubular-Rivet-1HBP8?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1HBP7_AS01?$smthumb$
Aluminum, 1/4 L, pk 100
http://www.grainger.com/product/Semi-Tubular-Rivet-1HCL7?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1HBP7_AS01?$smthumb$
Stainless, 5/16 L, pk 50
http://www.grainger.com/product/Semi-Tubular-Rivet-1HEE3?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1HBP7_AS01?$smthumb$
Steel, zinc plated, 5/16 L, pk 100
http://www.grainger.com/product/Semi-Tubular-Rivet-1HBP9?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1HBP7_AS01?$smthumb$
I used the rivets in the kit but I needed to fabricate a die to stake and flare the bottom with my rivet tool.
Jim
Thanks, Jim. Would the stainless or zinc plated steel be more correct?
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The originals look chrome plated, so stainless would be your best bet.
Also, think I mentioned it before, that the originals are tapered from the top to fit the hole in the vent window frame.
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The originals look chrome plated, so stainless would be your best bet.
Also, think I mentioned it before, that the originals are tapered from the top to fit the hole in the vent window frame.
You're right, I forgot about that. The lack of taper might be what makes the reproduction fit so badly.