ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: Angela on December 01, 2014, 02:50:54 PM
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Can anyone offer a good exploded view diagram of the 1967 deluxe steering wheel assembly, with part numbers? The attached picture is the only thing I have been able to dig up and it doesn't really include PNs.
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Don't believe you will find a Ford diagram with the complete part number for your specific application - The drawing was meant to go with the text part of the book/catalog which would provide the full part number for the counter person to order using the base number as a start
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Fair enough Jeff. I've never reassembled a deluxe steering wheel, so I am looking for pictures that would help me. For example, in the diagram above I think PN 13318 is the cancel cam, but I am not sure. I don't see that part being reproduced for this application and having the full PN might make it easier for me to find one?
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Checked a newer version of the MPC that I have in PDF (allot easier than grabbing the very large paper version) they only list the tilt version canceler. Apparently by the time of the printing they had stopped servicing that part for the fix column
For the tilt with the straight steering shaft) it was C7SZ -13318-B. Same as the 67-69 Thunderbird 67-69 Mustang and 68 Full size Ford
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cancelling cam if interested,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969-Mustang-GT-Shelby-Thunderbird-Cougar-Xr7-ORIG-TILT-AWAY-WHEEL-CAM-/151498749817?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2346077779&vxp=mtr
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NPD part#13318-4A Turn Signal Cam $4.95
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Thanks guys, but I don't have a tilt wheel. NPD doesn't list this part for 67 deluxe wheels, they only list it for 65-66 deluxe wheel AND the 67 tilt wheel. Anyone have a part number and/or source for this part?
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If you do not have a tilt wheel the canceling cam is built into the steering wheel.
Marty
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OK, I am totally lost. I cannot figure how the steering wheel goes together and I need help. Can anyone offer some pictures of how the deluxe wheel goes together? And/Or can someone take a look at the following pictures and help me understand what I am doing wrong? I cannot find a way to mate the upper and lower chrome pot-metal trim rings about the wheel. There appears to be two pegs cast into the lower trim ring which do not mate with any feature in the upper ring. If anyone has some pictures of how this goes together, I would be very grateful.
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It's been 7 years ago since I put mine together. I will look tomorrow and see if anything comes back to me. Seems like I found an article in a past Mustang Monthly magazine. I'll see what I can come up with. Bare with me.
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The image marked "Where do these go" look to be parts to a standard wheel, so if it were me, into the "left-over parts" bin.
Otherwise, I heard it here before...these are like a Chinese Jigsaw Puzzles to figure out...add aftermarket junk to the mix and a perfect recipe for frustration. You might find a 10-year-old who can solve "Transformer" toys easily a handy helper on this one ;D
As I said, one trouble might be that many if not most aftermarket parts to these wheels are terrible at best. Also, a slightly bent wheel will give you OTHER problems, yet the wheel might look great. The 67 wheel greatly differs in strength when set alongside a '65-'66 type, making them a bit weak and easily bent whilst cranking on the steering wheel of a PS car with the engine off (think of how hard the wheel would turn on a Big Block w/o the engine running) and/or in any (minor) collision.
The '65-'66 illustration you have is what I went by to reassemble mine but I did have to work at it a while to figure it out. I found myself reusing the original contact plates because the reproduction plates kept the horn switch "closed", meaning the horn would be ON all the time :-\ (again, some of my parts are aftermarket or unconfirmed OE.) If you have an original wood wheel, you might just need to get OE or NOS parts. I wondered if it were not wiser to just by the reproduction wheel and get my frustrations OVER with, once and for all but I eventually got it together. After getting my wheel together and working on 2 of the 3 contacts, I bought some more OE parts (sold by Charles T.) from eBay. I am reluctant to try and tackle it again to change them out yet because I figured 2 out of 3 ain't bad ;)
Going back a few years ago, I thought some of my problems might be my wheel is tweaked some...it too came from ebay many years ago and when I got it, I had to buy yet another pile of parts to get enough to make it right so back then I had over $500 (closer to $600) and it STILL wasn't right yet! :-\ ...only to see the reproduction wheels come available right afterwards. OK, I couldn't get the horn to work right but thought "at least the wheel looked like new" so I put it on the car, unplugged the horns since it was being stored anyways and stood back and marvelled how beautiful it was at least...THEN mice got into the car while it was being stored and the wheel became pitted some AAAHHHHH!!!!!!! lol! like I said...can be a bit frustrating but getting it "right" you will be pleased in the end.
Richard
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I did not have any trouble putting mine back together but getting the perfect adjustment so it would honk in all positions was a different story.
I started to remove mine last night so I could get some pictures but then remembered all of the trouble adjusting it and decided against it.
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Thanks for the feedback. I still cannot figure this out. My confusion doesn't change when I try to assemble the wheel using all original parts.... nothing fits together, hence I clearly do not understand how all of these pieces are supposed to fit back together. The only repro parts I was planning to use (until I can find show-quality originals) are the upper and lower trim rings. All else is original or NOS.
Please, please post any pictures or diagrams you may have. I am not finding anything helpful on the web image search.
Also, I found the following pic on ebay..... what is the yellow-ish, plastic-looking ring indicated by the red arrow?
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I did not have any trouble putting mine back together but getting the perfect adjustment so it would honk in all positions was a different story.
I started to remove mine last night so I could get some pictures but then remembered all of the trouble adjusting it and decided against it.
Similarly, with the diagram Angela has as my guide, it LOOKED like it was right according to the pictures yet when I Ohm tested for continuity, my horn was stuck on. Took it apart like 10 times without a change in results. I then tried shimming things with washers but then the horn wouldn't work at all and the fitment was off...
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More questions as shown in the picture below:
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I started to remove mine last night so I could get some pictures but then remembered all of the trouble adjusting it and decided against it.....
+1..... I could take pics of the wheel together, That's about it. I'm with Marty, I couldn't see me taking it apart just to have to put it back together.
Seems I used some sort of instruction from one of the Mustang magazines, but for the life of me, can't remember which one it was. Angela, look for Mustang Monthly article by googling. I have every issue of MM since the beginning.
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More questions as shown in the picture below:
That might explain things. Here is an image of the parts Charles sold as NOS to hopefully confirm the answer to your question in the photo. Difficult to see the bottom in this image, I would need to take another shot if it is no help.
UPDATE: I tried to open this image but it is a poor quality (bad resolution). I'll try and look tonight at these when I get home.
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"I would need to take another shot if it is no help." ----> any chance you could take another picture? I cannot see enough detail to discern what you believe is explaining things. Thanks in advance!
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Photos probably won't do you much good, but I thought I'd lend them anyway.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mustang-Deluxe-Woodgrain-Steering-Wheel-Original-1965-1967-With-Horn-Ring-/111534833212?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19f7fe7e3c
Here is an ebay listing that has some details you might be able to use.
I forgot, mine is on a tilt column and some say one of the chrome collar parts are listed as DIFFERENT on a tilt application.(the lower one) This has been refuted before but I do not know if there really ARE any different parts for the tilt/fixed column deluxe wheels. I never heard that the standard wheels have anything different about them so it makes no sense they should be different ONLY on the woodgrain wheels :-\ ...but I am no expert on this topic, I only have but ONE experience to speak of.
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I think these two "nubs" are the issue..... I see some pictures of these parts with the nubs and others without. Both the original and repro collars I have include these nubs, yet I don't find any corresponding features in the upper collar to accept them. What gives? Should these nubs be here for the 67 deluxe wheel application?
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The two collars should fit together nicely without ANYTHING else (as a test fit) If they do NOT fit together, at least one of those parts are incorrect.
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Agreed. If anyone has a picture of both sides of an original upper trim ring (the chrome piece which the padded center piece connects to) I would appreciate it. I am wondering if mine is incorrect, lacking features for the "nubs" within the lower trim ring to mate with.
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See if the attached document helps at all.
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Regarding wood/tilt different parts, there are two commonly discussed.
1. Different crash pad (cap assy, steering wheel hub, part 3623) on wood wheels (not related to tilt). I can confirm that this is true. Refer to the first picture below from the Jan 67 MPC. Also refer to a different post where I posted pictures with dimensions comparing a regular and wood grain wheel pad. The wood grain wheel pad is "deeper". In my opinion that is due to the fact that the wood wheel is a deeper dish than a regular one, and the pad, a safety item, was intended to be flush with the rim.
2. Different lower collar (for tilt app). I looked through the Jan 67 MPC and see no mention of this - there is only one part listed. I've never had someone claiming to sell one provide me with any dimensions so I could compare to the stash that I have. Also I have an original wheel and tilt column from a car (I pulled them both) and there is no difference compared to the other wheels I have. The second picture is for this part - 3491.
However, the big "but", if you look at the third picture from the very same MPC, you will notice that the steering wheel hub pictured is an older 1966 model. Which just shows that nothing is perfect.
I need to get a hold on a later MPC to see if there were any subsequent corrections.
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John, thanks for that PDF file, that should help Angela tremendously.
Here are the pictures of mine assembled, with the canceling cam and the NOS (although they have evidence of being used they were, if memory serves, listing as "installed once but removed NOS") parts from Charles T., sitting next to the wheel. Eventually, I will install the parts that are seperate but most likely whenever I send the wheel center out for restoration (a later day project).
The tri-bar horn ring in the assembed wheel (pictured) is also a NOS. It did have the C5 engineering number similar to the one pictured in John's aformentioned PDF but the C5 number was seemingly ground off before it wa chromed and a C7 number stamped into it (maybe a service replacement item, this all going by memory, I assembled this a year and a half ago but I do remember it sure looked exactly the same as the C5 one I have [though cracked] that I bought with an auction lot of parts & pieces to build my assembly out of)
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Thanks John for the pdf and "67gtasanjose" for the pictures!!!!
I have a question based on 67gtasanjose's 3rd, 4th and 5th pictures (above). Earlier in this thread, someone stated that if I had a deluxe steering wheel, then the cancelling cam is built into the wheel. However, in the above pictures isn't the plastic piece shown sitting next to the wheel the cancelling cam? I'm confused as to whether or not I need this part and if I do, where to find one. I don't see it being reproduced and don't find any on ebay right now.
2nd question, I know I asked this before, but what is the yellow-ish plastic looking ring visible in 67gtasanjose's photo (I marked it below):
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Thanks John for the pdf and "67gtasanjose" for the pictures!!!!
I have a question based on 67gtasanjose's 3rd, 4th and 5th pictures (above). Earlier in this thread, someone stated that if I had a deluxe steering wheel, then the cancelling cam is built into the wheel. However, in the above pictures isn't the plastic piece shown sitting next to the wheel the cancelling cam? I'm confused as to whether or not I need this part and if I do, where to find one. I don't see it being reproduced and don't find any on ebay right now.
2nd question, I know I asked this before, but what is the yellow-ish plastic looking ring visible in 67gtasanjose's photo (I marked it below):
The cancelling cam is pressed onto the wheel before the wheel is installed onto the column. I am leaving mine off till I am ready to install it to keep from accidently breaking it. The other yellowish ring is another insulator that is absolutely impossible to find and not really required to have in there (to my best understanding) The yellowish ring sets into the groove between the two contacts. I do not think all cars ever came with one, but as I said earlier, this is the only example of a 67 Wheel I have ever worked on
The cam is still available on ebay I mentioned earlier (listed as a tilt-away type) It looks like what I have but I do have a tilt column, so I won't swear it works on non-tilts. Maybe somebody with a master parts calalog can answer that question better but I would think it is the same thing for all applications.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969-Mustang-GT-Shelby-Thunderbird-Cougar-Xr7-ORIG-TILT-AWAY-WHEEL-CAM-/151498749817?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2346077779&vxp=mtr
Also here:
http://www.cobranda.com/tiwhtusicaca.html
Much more affordable at Branda's and I really have to wonder if it isn't for the wood wheel, not Tilt wheel only.
Again, a MPC would be a good source of the truth.
Richard
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FYI...I contacted that ebay seller and he/she indicated that cam will NOT work with the deluxe steering wheel. So, I remain confused.
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As I said before you do not need the canceling cam unless you have the tilt wheel. It is needed for the different tilt turn switch. The standard is built in to the steel of the wheel base.
Marty
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As I said before you do not need the canceling cam unless you have the tilt wheel. It is needed for the different tilt turn switch. The standard is built in to the steel of the wheel base.
Marty
Yes, now I get it...I just looked at a fixed wheel style turn signal switch and I think I now can explain it clearly.
The standard, non-tilt cancelling cam is actually part of the switch itself. There is a spring-loaded pin that indexes into the slot on the back of the steering wheel... any steering wheel, standard or wood. On a tilt wheel application, the plastic cam has a notch built into it that indexes into the same slot (slot is in the steering wheel), the cam is needed because the tilt-style switch does not have the cam built into it like the fixed column switch does. Look at a non-tilt switch, here is an example. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X67+mustang+turn+signal+switch&_nkw=67+mustang+turn+signal+switch&_sacat=0
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If needed I have a couple 67 tilt columns to take pics of, but won't have access to them for another week. Let me know if you need something.
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Thanks Marty. Could you please indicate which feature of the non-tilt wheel performs the cancelling function? I see no such feature, yet I'll admit I do not know what I am looking for.
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Thanks Marty. Could you please indicate which feature of the non-tilt wheel performs the cancelling function? I see no such feature, yet I'll admit I do not know what I am looking for.
Angela, I discussed this in my previous comment. (I also uploaded another picture depicting how the tilt wheel cancelling cam indexes to the back of the wheel) I figured out where I probably caused some confusion because my experience has been soley on tilt-wheel applications for over 25 years now. I had forgotten how the non-tilt cancelling worked but now I see it clearly after viewing a fixed column switch again. Look at the signal switch in your steering column or if you have it still out of the column, look at the switch (do not yet look again at the wheel) There should be a spring loaded steel pin sticking out of the switch, attached to a ring in the middle of the switch, not the spring loaded horn contacts, but nearer to the center of the turn signal switch. That ring inside the turn sig switch rotates around and works as the signal cancelling device. That spring-loaded pin will temporarily press in once you install the wheel but it will find itself into that slot in the rear of your steering wheel after the wheel is rotated in the column post assembly making it assembly-line dummy-proof. (now you should look again at the slot in your wheel) This is accomplished after the assembly on it's own, you do not have to concern yourself with indexing the spring loaded pin to the slot of the wheel. When the cancelling cam that is built into the T/S switch bumps into the outer parts of the turn signal switch assembly, that center part will find that slot in the wheel on it's own and after your front suspension wheel alignment is set and your steering wheel is centered everything will work as it is intended.
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Good, it looks as though you have it figured out now.
Marty
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I asked the following question back in December and I still need to find the answer. In the attached image, what are the three indents for? These three indents must be there for a reason and I'm certain they need to be installed into the woodgrain wheel in some specific orientation. I have no clue what the correct orientation is nor do I know what these indents are for. Please help. Pictures would be appreciated. I have to get this thing put together. Ugh.
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I just struggled with this for another 1/2 hr and am walking away. Ugh. if anyone has a pic of their wheel assembled but off of the car, please post the back side so I can see how the three indents are supposed to be aligned.
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Here's a few pics.
Forget about those indents, they don't matter. I presume it is a repro. The originals I have have two, not three.
I can tell you what you need to concentrate on are the tabs that the plastic "nuts" are pushed on to.
I've put these together in 5 minutes, taken them apart, and spent 30 minutes trying to line it up. Then next time it is 5 minutes. Drives me crazy - I know sometimes not a far trip...
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FYI: I have two original plates and both have three (3) indents.
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OK. I could check others but I have at least the one with two in the picture. I don't see any purpose since the wheel spins. Although I have not put one together in years...that is coming soon I hope.
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I know this is a very old thread but I've just had my 67 deluxe non-tilt steering wheel off and can add to Richard's posts about the turn signal cancellation cam (which is different to both 66 or earlier and 68 models from what I can tell). The plastic cam looks like the first picture attached below, and is separate to both steering wheel and switch assembly. It contains a sprung pin which as Richard says engages with a slot on the underside of the steering wheel (pictures 2 and 3). In my car the sprung pin has been lost and replaced with a fixed pin, which doesn't matter except when the wheel is reattached to the steering column. A spring sits inside the cam holding it in place and giving something for the steering wheel nut to tighten against.
Not sure that this will help anyone in the immediate future - but this forum is such an enduring wealth of information that it seemed only right that I add to it where I can.