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General Discussion / Re: AACA Sr. Grand National 1968 Metuchen Coupe
« Last post by MattDoscher on Today at 08:30:01 AM »Nice looking Mustang! Even nicer is that it's a straight 6 car!
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Suspension / Re: Original brake calipers - 1968 to 1970
« Last post by Anghelrestorations on Today at 01:35:47 AM »Interesting. So from your build date and the Julian date code on the calipers I am seeing those were assembled just 12 days before the car was built. And does look like at least from this example we have zinc plated (or cad plated) into 1969 production from this example.
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1967 Mustang / Re: 67 mustang no power
« Last post by Wedgeman on May 10, 2024, 07:39:58 PM »Thanks Guys!,,, 
...Problem solved. I started chasing the wires off the solenoid...found the red wire on the power side had a cracked fitting & was hanging by a thread. New fitting, power restored..THANKS AGAIN TO ALL OF YOU!!!
...Problem solved. I started chasing the wires off the solenoid...found the red wire on the power side had a cracked fitting & was hanging by a thread. New fitting, power restored..THANKS AGAIN TO ALL OF YOU!!!4
1968 Mustang / Re: OEM finish for 68 styled steel argent wheels ?
« Last post by J_Speegle on May 10, 2024, 05:27:58 PM »On the backside I was expecting to see black as we've discussed with styled wheels. In fact it's all silver front and back. Any thoughts?
Difficult to see if there is any difference in the wheel weight (not original) and mounting arm to the silver color applied to the back side of the rim.
I've painted them like this decades ago but haven't found them like that. We'll see if anyone else can come up with some like this
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1968 Mustang / Re: OEM finish for 68 styled steel argent wheels ?
« Last post by dkknab on May 10, 2024, 04:09:45 PM »Here's an oddity I'm guessing. I met the 2nd owner of my car who shared a number of pieces of info that were very helpful. He also had a tire and wheel that he got from the original owner.
From looking at the wheel it looks like it could have been originally installed on my car from the trim ring scratches on the front side and am 8MD date or April 68 which is the month my car was built, though early April. It also had AA embossed on the wheel. The spare tire wheel that was in my car has AC on it. Not sure what that means.
On the backside I was expecting to see black as we've discussed with styled wheels. In fact it's all silver front and back. Any thoughts?
From looking at the wheel it looks like it could have been originally installed on my car from the trim ring scratches on the front side and am 8MD date or April 68 which is the month my car was built, though early April. It also had AA embossed on the wheel. The spare tire wheel that was in my car has AC on it. Not sure what that means.
On the backside I was expecting to see black as we've discussed with styled wheels. In fact it's all silver front and back. Any thoughts?
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1966 Mustang / Re: Fastback Rear Folding Seat
« Last post by jwc66k on May 10, 2024, 03:37:00 PM »Brent,
I did a mental "walk-thru" of measurements, how to use them and some "quirks". The "quirk" I'm most concerned with are the "cups" that the bumpers from the curved folding sections use as stops. (This is a very late 65 and all 66 design. In early 65 Fastback, it a raised bracket.) It's called "Catch, Rear Seat Back Stop, C5ZB-6360575", item 2 on the drawing in your reply #2. That panel need a "recess" in it for each cup to fit properly. You can't see them on the underside picture in your original post.
The second "problem" is that to drill holes in the panel you need to drill thru the carpet first, the drilling often "grabs" a section of carpet and pulls it leaving a "scar" in the carpet. I've used a 1/4 inch hole punch to remove enough carpet to successfully drill a hole.
The rear most screw for the "cup", 54511-S13, 10-24X1 1/2 inch Pan head, is 3 inch in from the edge of the chrome and 3 3/8 inch from the rear curve. The recess for the cup would be about an inch in front of that. "Poke" around for that "recess'.
I'll add a picture later.
Jim
Picture added. The red arrow on the right is the "cup". The red arrow on the left is for the front screw (52979-S13, 10-24X1 1/2 inch Pan head, thread cutting) and washer (34970-S, no10 Finishing washer, SST).
(The difference in shade of the panels is "normal".)
I did a mental "walk-thru" of measurements, how to use them and some "quirks". The "quirk" I'm most concerned with are the "cups" that the bumpers from the curved folding sections use as stops. (This is a very late 65 and all 66 design. In early 65 Fastback, it a raised bracket.) It's called "Catch, Rear Seat Back Stop, C5ZB-6360575", item 2 on the drawing in your reply #2. That panel need a "recess" in it for each cup to fit properly. You can't see them on the underside picture in your original post.
The second "problem" is that to drill holes in the panel you need to drill thru the carpet first, the drilling often "grabs" a section of carpet and pulls it leaving a "scar" in the carpet. I've used a 1/4 inch hole punch to remove enough carpet to successfully drill a hole.
The rear most screw for the "cup", 54511-S13, 10-24X1 1/2 inch Pan head, is 3 inch in from the edge of the chrome and 3 3/8 inch from the rear curve. The recess for the cup would be about an inch in front of that. "Poke" around for that "recess'.
I'll add a picture later.
Jim
Picture added. The red arrow on the right is the "cup". The red arrow on the left is for the front screw (52979-S13, 10-24X1 1/2 inch Pan head, thread cutting) and washer (34970-S, no10 Finishing washer, SST).
(The difference in shade of the panels is "normal".)
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1967 Mustang / Re: 67 mustang no power
« Last post by dkknab on May 10, 2024, 02:43:33 PM »Are you sure your battery is good? I did see you were able to turn over the car be jumping the solenoid. I had a similar problem with my 68 but it wouldn't turn over. Don't remember if I checked my lights. Changed starter solenoid and bought new neutral safety switch when I thought it might be good to really test my battery. Took it to an auto parts store and it was dead. Put a new old battery in and the car started just fine. Just a thought. Might not be the case at all. I now have a battery tester for future issues.
PS my battery had good voltage, just not any CCA which made me initially think of wasn't my battery.
PS my battery had good voltage, just not any CCA which made me initially think of wasn't my battery.
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Suspension / Re: Original brake calipers - 1968 to 1970
« Last post by Bob Gaines on May 10, 2024, 11:34:19 AM »It seems counter intuitive that there would be a need for the black out paint if the calipers were already protected from flash rust by the plating? That is unless some were and others weren't and they blacked them out regardless.
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1966 Mustang / Re: Fastback Rear Folding Seat
« Last post by 66TotalPerf on May 10, 2024, 11:27:29 AM »Thanks everyone. So those two parts are just rubber bumpers to reduce rattles and avoid scratching the quarter panels?
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Suspension / Re: Original brake calipers - 1968 to 1970
« Last post by AJ on May 10, 2024, 10:32:49 AM »After further cleaning, the calipers from my 02/26/69 GT500 appear to be zinc plated with some remnant black paint on wheel facing side. Has zinc been seen much on 69 calipers before.