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1966 Mustang / Re: Differential ID 1966 K code.
« Last post by RoyceP on Today at 05:50:40 PM »
Typically on a 55 + year old car the differential is shot. At a minimum you usually have to replace all the bearings and clutches. Not everyone knows that you must also use Ford Friction Modifier with the conventional oil - do not use synthetic gear oil or the clutches will be toast.


If you are lucky the differential can be saved using the above but often the differential is cracked, gears are worn etc. Have someone rebuild it properly and you will not have to worry about it in the future. New axle bearings and gaskets are needed too.
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1966 Mustang / Re: Fastback Rear Folding Seat
« Last post by jwc66k on Today at 04:52:07 PM »
the other side of my rear panel does have the triangular cutouts for the 2 Catch plates. Additionally, I have everything stripped off the units as I plan to paint and install new carpet; I only installed the chrome trim to confirm screw holes match.
That last photo solves a lot (yes boys and girls, it is two words) of problems and questions.
Locate the rear panel retainer first (view DD, item C, C5ZB-63115A60) and get it installed. Make sure screws "D" and "K" (view DD) work
The location of the front holes are, measured with chrome installed (I'm not removing my chrome to measure):
From the side edge - 3 inches; from the front edge - 2 3/4 inches (a sanity check - 10 3/4 from the rear curve in edge). I would use a 1/4 inch dia bit. It looks like you have about 1/4 inch "play" with the washer to cover the hole. The carpet will help.
Back to your reply #2, view FF. Note the welded in "bracket" that the screw, item "B", goes into. You probably need to dill a pilot hole for the 10-24 X 1 1/2 tapping screw into "that bracket". Put a piece of masking tape over "that bracket", both sides. To get the location of the "tap", the rear panel has a 3/8 inch gap between it an the rear folding section in front of it. Cut a couple of pieces of wood 3/8 inch thick (an inch wide, 3 - 4 inches tall) and stick one on each end of the panel to maintain the "gap". Tape them in if necessary. Center the rear panel between the real quarter panels, and align it also with the rear folding section sides. Position the panel as described above and use a "working" ball point pen REFILL (it has a small enough diameter to go thru the hole to mark the location of the hole. Remove the rear panel; use a center pinch to get the "drill spot", drill and tap. Use a no25 drill, 0.149in, and definitely thread the holes with a 10/24 tap. You may have to put some blocks of wood under "that bracket" to keep it flat.
See if it fit. Hoist a beer if it does.
Jim
I added some pictures.
1. The bumper (2 req'd) in the front edge of the folding curved section.
2. The side "thingie" (I didn't remember this guide/bumper at all on my Fastback, but there it is).
3. The rear of the Fastback with everything removed.
4. The upper piece of chrome was very pitted, so I bought a replacement set from NPD. The parts in the replacement set were a lot (see above) nicer but they did "feel thinner". It was about half the cost of getting the original pieces re-chromed, and it is impossible (without a major machine shop at your disposal) to disassemble the long hinge.
5. Same as 4.


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1966 Mustang / Re: Differential ID 1966 K code.
« Last post by Bob Gaines on Today at 03:06:09 PM »
Easiest way to ID limited slip on the bench is from Jeff's left 2 photos, the limited slip units have the bolt heads recessed into the casting. However, with the unit removed, wouldn't be a bad idea to at least test breakaway torque and if low replace clutch packs.

-Brent
+1
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Suspension / Re: Original brake calipers - 1968 to 1970
« Last post by Bob Gaines on Today at 03:03:57 PM »
Another seeming anamoly for a 69 model are the fine thread bolts and nuts on the tie rod sleeve clamps.  It was my understanding zinc calipers and fine thread hardware on adjusting sleeves were not ofter or ever observed carry overs from 68 to 69. 

Might these generally result in point deductions on a 69 model if unable to verify they were original.
Two different things need two different answers. If you choose to use the plated calipers which is out of the ordinary first off save pictures like you have posted her and keep in a album to keep with the car to help judging team understand why you did what you did. If you do choose to go that way you will need to renew the finish on the calipers to appear as new and not a diminished finish as they appear now.  Don't forget to black out the wheel side. Of course you can also use bare cast iron finish caliper like is typical. As far as the sleeves and hardware are concerned , the sleeves need to be gone over to remove plier marks or just replace with better condition . As far as the hardware I would replace with the typical as it will be a hard case to make that those fine thread and acorn nuts are original for your 69 car IMO .But that is just me. Of course it is your car and consequently it is your choices to make.   
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1966 Mustang / Re: Differential ID 1966 K code.
« Last post by 66TotalPerf on Today at 12:33:25 PM »
Easiest way to ID limited slip on the bench is from Jeff's left 2 photos, the limited slip units have the bolt heads recessed into the casting. However, with the unit removed, wouldn't be a bad idea to at least test breakaway torque and if low replace clutch packs.

-Brent
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1966 Mustang / Re: Fastback Rear Folding Seat
« Last post by 66TotalPerf on Today at 12:25:04 PM »
Jim, appreciate the tips and measurements!

the other side of my rear panel does have the triangular cutouts for the 2 Catch plates. Additionally, I have everything stripped off the units as I plan to paint and install new carpet; I only installed the chrome trim to confirm screw holes match.

Finally, I bought all the correct hardware from AMK for the install.

Thanks!
Brent
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Suspension / Re: Original brake calipers - 1968 to 1970
« Last post by AJ on Today at 10:33:02 AM »
Another seeming anamoly for a 69 model are the fine thread bolts and nuts on the tie rod sleeve clamps.  It was my understanding zinc calipers and fine thread hardware on adjusting sleeves were not ofter or ever observed carry overs from 68 to 69. 

Might these generally result in point deductions on a 69 model if unable to verify they were original.
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Parts for Sale / NEW 14" BFG Silvertown Pin White Stripe Radials
« Last post by Shawn on Today at 09:56:33 AM »
I had previously made a post for 4 rims along with these tires.  I have decided to keep the rims and the tires are for sale.  Just changed my mind on the white wall style.  Purchased new from Coker Tire last fall and had mounted on my rims to move the car out of paint shop.  Tires have no road use and are just a few months old. Paid $1,400 for the 4 tires willing to sell for $900 obo

215/70R14 Tire Conversion Chart

Suitable Radial Replacement For: F70-14 Bias Ply Tire

Similar Size Radial Alternative: FR70-14

Can deliver to Ford Carlisle

Thanks

Shawn

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General Discussion / Re: AACA Sr. Grand National 1968 Metuchen Coupe
« Last post by MattDoscher on Today at 08:30:01 AM »
Nice looking Mustang!  Even nicer is that it's a straight 6 car!

Matt
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Suspension / Re: Original brake calipers - 1968 to 1970
« Last post by Anghelrestorations on Today at 01:35:47 AM »
Interesting.  So from your build date and the Julian date code on the calipers I am seeing those were assembled just 12 days before the car was built.  And does look like at least from this example we have zinc plated (or cad plated) into 1969 production from this example. 
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