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The problem with re - chroming is the factory used a special die when chroming the emblems that the re - chromers do not have. As a result re - chroming the emblem will not be satisfactory.   
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From your picture one is a C4 assemblyline part with the thin pins and the other a C8 service part with the thicker pins.They are two different parts. The NOS service C4 marked emblems and the assemblyline versions are the same part with the same definition typically. The C8 marked service part is a completely different part ,mold etc.  First off it will be expensive to have rechromed .I'm guessing 200-300.00 for the emblem. The pins will be very a problematic effort to fix. You can find used C4 emblems with pins intact but then you still have the re chrome price to contend with.
 On top of that when chrome plating old diecast many times but not always pits bubble up to the surface as a result of the process and you would be stuck with a less then perfect part at the end of the day. That is besides losing definition from the polishing process prior to plating.  NOS C4 versions are still out there and command 250-400.00 price tag each. I thought I would give you some observations for you to consider .

I?ve seen some used C4 versions on EBAY but no NOS ones.

If I picked up used and they?re not pitted, can they be rechromed without losing the subtle details?

I?m not familiar with the rechrome process (obviously).
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I am getting ready to have my hood repainted. I have the stencil for it, but I am having trouble finding the correct, textured matte black paint to do the hood stripes. Thanks

I puchased 1 quart of textured low gloss black from TCP Global in 2021, cost $97 but the end result is fantastic. Instructions say to apply two wet coats. I used the stencil too.
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1970 Mustang / Re: What is the correct paint for Mach 1 rocker moundings?
« Last post by ExportMach on May 11, 2024, 06:23:39 PM »
Recently, I bought some paint from NPD. It is a very dark charcoal grey that is almost black. The color of my rocker molding is a much lighter gray. Could someone give me an indication of which one is right, or where I might find the right shade of grey?

Recently I purchased and used the paint from NPD and it closely matched the OE paint on my OE rocker trim panels. It was dark charcoal but by no means was it almost black.
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1966 Mustang / Re: Differential ID 1966 K code.
« Last post by RoyceP on May 11, 2024, 05:50:40 PM »
Typically on a 55 + year old car the differential is shot. At a minimum you usually have to replace all the bearings and clutches. Not everyone knows that you must also use Ford Friction Modifier with the conventional oil - do not use synthetic gear oil or the clutches will be toast.


If you are lucky the differential can be saved using the above but often the differential is cracked, gears are worn etc. Have someone rebuild it properly and you will not have to worry about it in the future. New axle bearings and gaskets are needed too.
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1966 Mustang / Re: Fastback Rear Folding Seat
« Last post by jwc66k on May 11, 2024, 04:52:07 PM »
the other side of my rear panel does have the triangular cutouts for the 2 Catch plates. Additionally, I have everything stripped off the units as I plan to paint and install new carpet; I only installed the chrome trim to confirm screw holes match.
That last photo solves a lot (yes boys and girls, it is two words) of problems and questions.
Locate the rear panel retainer first (view DD, item C, C5ZB-63115A60) and get it installed. Make sure screws "D" and "K" (view DD) work
The location of the front holes are, measured with chrome installed (I'm not removing my chrome to measure):
From the side edge - 3 inches; from the front edge - 2 3/4 inches (a sanity check - 10 3/4 from the rear curve in edge). I would use a 1/4 inch dia bit. It looks like you have about 1/4 inch "play" with the washer to cover the hole. The carpet will help.
Back to your reply #2, view FF. Note the welded in "bracket" that the screw, item "B", goes into. You probably need to dill a pilot hole for the 10-24 X 1 1/2 tapping screw into "that bracket". Put a piece of masking tape over "that bracket", both sides. To get the location of the "tap", the rear panel has a 3/8 inch gap between it an the rear folding section in front of it. Cut a couple of pieces of wood 3/8 inch thick (an inch wide, 3 - 4 inches tall) and stick one on each end of the panel to maintain the "gap". Tape them in if necessary. Center the rear panel between the real quarter panels, and align it also with the rear folding section sides. Position the panel as described above and use a "working" ball point pen REFILL (it has a small enough diameter to go thru the hole to mark the location of the hole. Remove the rear panel; use a center pinch to get the "drill spot", drill and tap. Use a no25 drill, 0.149in, and definitely thread the holes with a 10/24 tap. You may have to put some blocks of wood under "that bracket" to keep it flat.
See if it fit. Hoist a beer if it does.
Jim
I added some pictures.
1. The bumper (2 req'd) in the front edge of the folding curved section.
2. The side "thingie" (I didn't remember this guide/bumper at all on my Fastback, but there it is).
3. The rear of the Fastback with everything removed.
4. The upper piece of chrome was very pitted, so I bought a replacement set from NPD. The parts in the replacement set were a lot (see above) nicer but they did "feel thinner". It was about half the cost of getting the original pieces re-chromed, and it is impossible (without a major machine shop at your disposal) to disassemble the long hinge.
5. Same as 4.


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1966 Mustang / Re: Differential ID 1966 K code.
« Last post by Bob Gaines on May 11, 2024, 03:06:09 PM »
Easiest way to ID limited slip on the bench is from Jeff's left 2 photos, the limited slip units have the bolt heads recessed into the casting. However, with the unit removed, wouldn't be a bad idea to at least test breakaway torque and if low replace clutch packs.

-Brent
+1
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Suspension / Re: Original brake calipers - 1968 to 1970
« Last post by Bob Gaines on May 11, 2024, 03:03:57 PM »
Another seeming anamoly for a 69 model are the fine thread bolts and nuts on the tie rod sleeve clamps.  It was my understanding zinc calipers and fine thread hardware on adjusting sleeves were not ofter or ever observed carry overs from 68 to 69. 

Might these generally result in point deductions on a 69 model if unable to verify they were original.
Two different things need two different answers. If you choose to use the plated calipers which is out of the ordinary first off save pictures like you have posted her and keep in a album to keep with the car to help judging team understand why you did what you did. If you do choose to go that way you will need to renew the finish on the calipers to appear as new and not a diminished finish as they appear now.  Don't forget to black out the wheel side. Of course you can also use bare cast iron finish caliper like is typical. As far as the sleeves and hardware are concerned , the sleeves need to be gone over to remove plier marks or just replace with better condition . As far as the hardware I would replace with the typical as it will be a hard case to make that those fine thread and acorn nuts are original for your 69 car IMO .But that is just me. Of course it is your car and consequently it is your choices to make.   
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1966 Mustang / Re: Differential ID 1966 K code.
« Last post by 66TotalPerf on May 11, 2024, 12:33:25 PM »
Easiest way to ID limited slip on the bench is from Jeff's left 2 photos, the limited slip units have the bolt heads recessed into the casting. However, with the unit removed, wouldn't be a bad idea to at least test breakaway torque and if low replace clutch packs.

-Brent
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1966 Mustang / Re: Fastback Rear Folding Seat
« Last post by 66TotalPerf on May 11, 2024, 12:25:04 PM »
Jim, appreciate the tips and measurements!

the other side of my rear panel does have the triangular cutouts for the 2 Catch plates. Additionally, I have everything stripped off the units as I plan to paint and install new carpet; I only installed the chrome trim to confirm screw holes match.

Finally, I bought all the correct hardware from AMK for the install.

Thanks!
Brent
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