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71
1966 Shelby / Re: Mixing Insructions GT350H Bronze Gold Powder
« Last post by chsproscon on May 09, 2024, 05:35:18 AM »
Thank you for your reply.  I have the 10" and varying stripe dimensions supplied from Branda Performance.  Should there be something different?  I have purchased stencils for the GT 350H side stripes and from what I have determined they have the correct dimensions and spacing.  I have repainted my original Hertz Shelby Mustang with the original Sapphire Blue in base-coat and clear-coat. I have purchase a quart of the Inca Gold Pearl Paint in base-coat and it is much to gold compared to the Gold Bronze Powder that I purchased from Mustangs Unlimited in the 70's.  The powder is more "bronze or red" then the Inca Gold.  I am looking for some basic mixing instructions for the Gold Bronze Powder.  Such as how much clear is needed to cover the total stripes both on the side stripes (GT 350H) and the 10" and varying stripe down the center of the car?  What is the ratio of powder to clear?  How much powder to clear should I mix?

You mention discoloration with the bronze powder and yet you stated you used it with no ill effects.  Is that with current clear-coat paint such as Omni Clear?  You also mention Inca Gold.  What was used?  And then that you got the Bronze Powder.  WHY?  I realize that the powder is no longer available from the usual suppliers (Branda/Mustang Unlimited).  But there are suppliers of Gold Bronze Powder available.  I do not need these.  I want the to use this original powder purchased years ago as I understand that it is the most original powder/paint.  I also understand the some Shelby Mustangs received the Painted Stripes from the dealers as Shelby's price was to expensive.  Which could mean that not all Shelby Gold Stripes are the same color.  Since this is an Original Hertz Shelby with number in the 1200's I suspect that Shelby painted the stripes and not the dealer who received the vehicle.  Can you help with the mixing instructions for this Bronze Gold Powder per Shelby's instructions?  Any help is appreciated.  Thanks
72
1968 Mustang / Re: 68 Master Cylinder/Lid Finish
« Last post by Bob Gaines on May 09, 2024, 02:14:01 AM »
Back to the master cylinder.  At Birmingham I got dinged for a silver cap and not black.  Before I paint the cap I have or get a second cap to paint black,  I just wanted to confirm that silver cap for my car is correct as I thought we decided in earlier posts on this thread.

The MCA grading sheet gives black or zinc dichromate as the options,  not silver.
They are all (front disc brake) painted black . 65-67 the caps were zinc dichromate before being painted black . 68 up the caps were zinc silver before being painted black.
73
1968 Mustang / Re: 68 Master Cylinder/Lid Finish
« Last post by Bob Gaines on May 09, 2024, 02:10:43 AM »
Not sure were the group came to that conclusion (caps not being black with the rest of the master cylinder) but IMHO and from experience they should be painted as a unit black with cap to reduce the chance of the master cylinders rusting while in Fords control. On power brake cars the master cylinder and booster were painted as a unit - together
Jeff, he said that he got dinged for the cap "not" being black. To add, underneath the black paint it should be silver for 68. When the bail wire is un clamped and clamped like during pre delivery to check fluid level inevitably the black paint gets scratched. Underneath the black paint silver should show through.
74
1969 - 70 Shelby / Wheel restoration
« Last post by Tomdeg on May 09, 2024, 02:10:30 AM »
Hey all,
My wheels are looking a little tired and could use a refresh. The chrome is still in great shape, but the centers need help. What?s the general consensus on refreshing the cast spokes? Media blast, walnut shells?, acid? And how to duplicate the satin finish on the outer sections? Thanks in advance.
Tom
75
1967 Mustang / Re: 67 buck tag
« Last post by midlife on May 09, 2024, 12:34:47 AM »
PIO is Performance Image Option, aka GT.
76
1967 Mustang / 67 mustang no power
« Last post by Wedgeman on May 09, 2024, 12:34:19 AM »
Went to start my 67 390 C6 and when I turned the key...NOTHING....EVERYTHING IS BLACK....battery has full power...no headlights ( shouldn't they work anyway?)..no dash lights...yet when I cross the solenoid,,,it cranks over. Changed the solenoid & voltage regulator...nothing...any ideas out there??
77
1967 Mustang / 67 NJ buck tag decoding
« Last post by preaction on May 09, 2024, 12:30:48 AM »
I came across a 67 Metuchen build  with a buck tag and until the Marti report comes out I wanted to ask if any one recognizes any of these that are stamped on the Buck tag. 7T02S  A4? I'm not sure about the 4,  SK P10 it has power disk brakes listed as DB, MC FD It is a Wimbledon white car with tan deluxe interior and upper and lower consoles.
78
1968 Mustang / Re: 68 Master Cylinder/Lid Finish
« Last post by J_Speegle on May 08, 2024, 11:03:10 PM »
Back to the master cylinder.  At Birmingham I got dinged for a silver cap and not black.  Before I paint the cap I have or get a second cap to paint black,  I just wanted to confirm that silver cap for my car is correct as I thought we decided in earlier posts on this thread.

The MCA grading sheet gives black or zinc dichromate as the options,  not silver.

Not sure were the group came to that conclusion (caps not being black with the rest of the master cylinder) but IMHO and from experience they should be painted as a unit black with cap to reduce the chance of the master cylinders rusting while in Fords control. On power brake cars the master cylinder and booster were painted as a unit - together
79
1968 Mustang / Re: 68 Master Cylinder/Lid Finish
« Last post by dkknab on May 08, 2024, 09:53:21 PM »
Back to the master cylinder.  At Birmingham I got dinged for a silver cap and not black.  Before I paint the cap I have or get a second cap to paint black,  I just wanted to confirm that silver cap for my car is correct as I thought we decided in earlier posts on this thread.

The MCA grading sheet gives black or zinc dichromate as the options,  not silver.
80
Interior & Trunk / Re: Applying quarter trim upholstery on convertible
« Last post by dave6768 on May 08, 2024, 08:45:03 PM »
A bunch of spring clamps like these.  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Anvil-2-in-Spring-Clamp-99691/302755764


I wrap it all around.  Fold over the edges.  Put all the clamps in place.  Go around and make the slits as needed in the corners. 
Then undo a couple of clamps at a time and glue that area.  Do small sections as you move around.  As stated, glue only goes on the backside.  Leave the clamps in place until the glue is good and dry.
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