ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1966 Mustang => Topic started by: dsielke on January 01, 2023, 04:32:51 PM
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I am in the process of restoring the PS linkage and control valve on my Dec. 1, 1965 San Jose convertible. I was under the assumption the mounting / stud housing was originally natural steel but after disassembly it appears to be originally painted black. Is this correct?
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Originally and in add on kits provided to the dealerships these parts were not paint but like V8 units bare steel finish matching their making. Cast steel, formed steel, aluminum and so on
Think someone painted your assembly
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/18/6-020123163328-18192629.jpeg)
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Interesting. They must have gone through a lot of trouble a long time ago. It was painted against clean metal under the clamp and boot that appeared to be original.
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Show us the clamp, if you could.
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Interesting. They must have gone through a lot of trouble a long time ago. It was painted against clean metal under the clamp and boot that appeared to be original.
It might have been rebuilt at some point or a service piece from later that 66
Think I have pictures of three kits all early ones with the blue and white labels and the finishes are the same. Could look for unrestored car examples but believe I will find the same
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I asked about the clamp because a lot of later rebuilds sport a much different clamp than assy line.
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Show us the clamp, if you could.
This is a picture I took this afternoon after cleaning, blueing and replacing marks. I will take a better pic of the clamp as soon as I can. It has a tab that keeps it aligned with the stud housing. I don?t think it is a replacement. The housing is still soaking in the evaporust tonight.
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Round tab on top fits perfectly into slot. Pretty sure it was made for it.
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Another question, did the 200 PS have a strap / pinch clamp to hold the hoses against the center link like V8s?
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Sorry, I wasn't clear. During rebuilds the boot clamp often gets replaced. The two screws also get replaced with sharp tipped replacements, rather than the blunt nose originals.
Also, the large, yellow, plastic gasket on the valve gets replaced with another color.
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Sorry, I wasn't clear. During rebuilds the boot clamp often gets replaced. The two screws also get replaced with sharp tipped replacements, rather than the blunt nose originals.
Also, the large, yellow, plastic gasket on the valve gets replaced with another color.
Ah, this was the clamp and screws.
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I can't see the side I need.
Although a different year and application, the boot clamp detail applies.
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=26983.msg165810#msg165810
Your screws are correct and difficult to find.
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I can't see the side I need.
Although a different year and application, the boot clamp detail applies.
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=26983.msg165810#msg165810
Your screws are correct and difficult to find.
Thanks, good to know. I will be sure to clean and reuse them. If you are talking about the round cutout on only one side it does have it
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Wow! I just compared the clamp to the one that came with the new stud rubber boot. Not even close to the same.
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I was asked about the markings on the center link. It may be hard to see in this image but the yellow and white stripes were found during cleaning. The linkages were painted black at some point which protected them a bit I think.
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I just cleaned up the original clamp and it was really pitted and I couldn?t get it all out. I was looking at some NOS one available and the all appear to be cad or dichromate gold. Is that not assembly correct? I don?t think the original is serviceable.
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Go to the box store and buy some muriatic acid (aka concrete cleaner). Dip object until all the bubbles go away.
Then either flush the object in a lot of water or get another container and mix up a solution of baking soda and water and dip in there afterwards.
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Go to the box store and buy some muriatic acid (aka concrete cleaner). Dip object until all the bubbles go away.
Then either flush the object in a lot of water or get another container and mix up a solution of baking soda and water and dip in there afterwards.
Will that get rid of the pitting? I soaked it in evaporust so it doesn?t have any rust left, just a lot of deep pitting.
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no that won't fix the pitting. is is there for all time. you need a better part.
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no that won't fix the pitting. is is there for all time. you need a better part.
That what I figured, I guess I need to order one of the NOS kits I saw, thanks.
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That what I figured, I guess I need to order one of the NOS kits I saw, thanks.
Compare the "NOS" one to your originals. Not all NOS parts are designed or fashioned like assembly line pieces so don't assume they are. ;)
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Absolutely. In the pictures it looks right but I will compare before I use it.
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Go to the box store and buy some muriatic acid (aka concrete cleaner). Dip object until all the bubbles go away.
Then either flush the object in a lot of water or get another container and mix up a solution of baking soda and water and dip in there afterwards.
Will that get rid of the pitting? I soaked it in evaporust so it doesn?t have any rust left, just a lot of deep pitting.
It appears you have followed none of the plating threads. A lot of NOS parts are cad or dichromate finished for long term storage.
The method above removes cad and zinc dichromate finishes and leaves bare steel, as original.
Do it outside as the fumes are hazardous.
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no that won't fix the pitting. is is there for all time. you need a better part.
Or you can improve the part by removing the metal around the pits and finally the pits themselves. It does make the part thinner and if you aren't used to metal finishing on small rounded parts, appears to be impossible. If the part needs to be plated you must do that too.
In the case of bare metal you follow up with glass ball media blasting.
Here are some tough to find clips on which I used a 2" high speed Roloc flapper followed by Caswell Copy Cad plating. No more rust pits.
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I have been looking into plating solutions to do some parts
Myself but haven?t tackled that yet myself. Something I need to learn to do. Looking at casswell kits.
I did try sanding the part down but it really is too thin to get the pits out and remain usable sadly.
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I can vouch for the ease and low cost of plating. I used ingredients readily found at home and even pool products to clean, etch, and plate a variety of small parts. I highly recommend it. Plus the satisfaction of doing this yourself and cost savings because you don't need to send the parts out, is a bonus.