ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: Ralf on February 28, 2023, 02:25:03 PM
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Does anyone know how to peel off/remove best the original inlays of the original shifter plate and console top plate?
Are they factory glued on?
Temperature? Knife? Dremel?
Any procedure/process suggestions?
Thank you.
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I don't think there is an inlay - it was cast in one piece and then machined. The clip was riveted on.
Edit - my reply was limited in scope to the original question, namely the console pieces.
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The brushed aluminum part is a sticker. Never understood why the reproduction has the grain running 90 degrees off. Use a razor blade to lift one corner. It comes right off.
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To add,a heat gun AND a razor blade to get under and lift makes the job easier.
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I don't think there is an inlay - it was cast in one piece and then machined. The clip was riveted on.
+1, I agree...machined surfaces on original examples I have seen, radio plate, shifter plate, console top and ash tray lid.
Inlays used on dash parts, not on doors nor on consoles (from the factory).
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Hm....different answers. Where to go from here?
(I do not have repros glued on the original plates, its original).
Means, there are no inlays on orginals as far as I understood now.
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Original deluxe dash pieces have inlays glued to a plate with tabs. Heat and a razor blade to get under and lift up inlay is how you separate those. I am not familiar with the console piece.
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Original deluxe dash pieces have inlays glued to a plate with tabs. Heat and a razor blade to get under and lift up inlay is how you separate those. I am not familiar with the console piece.
Really? [size=78%]https://www.ebay.com/itm/363861464781?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=fNK2amQnSWi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=y_zI9x6NSxC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY (https://www.ebay.com/itm/363861464781?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=fNK2amQnSWi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=y_zI9x6NSxC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY)[/size]
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Really? [size=78%]https://www.ebay.com/itm/363861464781?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=fNK2amQnSWi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=y_zI9x6NSxC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY (https://www.ebay.com/itm/363861464781?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=fNK2amQnSWi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=y_zI9x6NSxC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY)[/size]
Yes really ;) . If I was familiar with the console piece I would say so. ;D
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May be a "misunderstandig" in wording.
I was asking for the
- shifter trim plate bezel and
- console top plate (ash tray the same)
Not for the shifter plate insert, which can be removed like described with some heat and a razor blade.
That means to me its not possible to remove anything on those 3 parts as been said by John and Richard.
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I was confused about exactly what was being described so stayed away earlier in the day. I too believe, if I understand the sections your referring to, that those are all one piece sections with the details, including what your asking, are cast into and finished
A few pictures to illustrate some of the features notated by the colored arrows to help the discussion. Some of the others may have been thinking of the automatic insert (yellow arrow) that is an add on (glued down) feature but will let them confirm or clarify. That panel is glued to the sift indication that is attached to the floor not the shifter bezel
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/18/6-280223231202-184221168.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/18/6-280223231201-184211270.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/18/6-280223231157-18420716.jpeg)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/18/6-280223232020-184231959.jpeg)
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Yes Jeff....green and blue arrows show what I was asking for.
Thank you.
So, no way to pull them off.
But nowadays the repro inlays are much thicker than in previous years , 0,8mm.
I would like to hide the highly pitted surfaces. Looks aweful.
But repros look much more aweful? So, better to leave it like it is to keep the original touch, even pitted?
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But repros look much more aweful? So, better to leave it like it is to keep the original touch, even pitted?
Like many things its about choices, and making best of the choices.
I would make the choice of which one looks better for you, if your concerned about judging choose the one that you will likely loose the least points with, if not interested then choose the one you feel better with. All the while searching for an original or donor console you can swap the tops out for. Then when done swap yours with those, reassemble the donor console and sell it to off set or pay for everything.
Its a bolt on item so upgrade can always be in its future.
Just one way to look at the current situation. Hope it helps in some way.
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(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/18/6-280223231157-18420716.jpeg)
I forgot to list this item. This is the only console section with brushed aluminum inlay insert. Clearly, only on automatic transmission examples.
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Made a deeper search and found this posted by Richard.
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11705.msg73081;topicseen#msg73081
May be and due to the fact that the new repro overlays are much thicker now, this could be a possibilty using a sanding disc to strip off to bare pot metal, provide a smoth surface and than to glue on the overlays and finally to polish them to have a closer approach to the more shiny orginal.
Sounds like a hell of work with a questionable result...
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Made a deeper search and found this posted by Richard.
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11705.msg73081;topicseen#msg73081
May be and due to the fact that the new repro overlays are much thicker now, this could be a possibilty using a sanding disc to strip off to bare pot metal, provide a smoth surface and than to glue on the overlays and finally to polish them to have a closer approach to the more shiny orginal.
Sounds like a hell of work with a questionable result...
I asked within that thread about the reproduction consoles and since, have seen one at the counter of NPD in Michigan. They look pretty good, fitment still unknown but if I remember correctly, you have a convertible. The reproduction console is made to fit non A/C coupes & fastback and require trimming for A/C cars and convertibles.
Otherwise, yes, if you grind or machine down the faux brushed aluminum surfaces of the console and make the surface uniformly smooth, the overlay kits will look better than the pitting but it will never have the sheen of the original ones.
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Made a deeper search and found this posted by Richard.
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11705.msg73081;topicseen#msg73081
May be and due to the fact that the new repro overlays are much thicker now, this could be a possibilty using a sanding disc to strip off to bare pot metal, provide a smoth surface and than to glue on the overlays and finally to polish them to have a closer approach to the more shiny orginal.
Sounds like a hell of work with a questionable result...
I would forget thinking that you can polish the overly successfully to make it more shinier. I do not think the material and the clearcoat will withstand the process.